Madeira 2024

14th-21st November

Thursday - Travel to Maderia

Our second time in Madeira, this time based in Calheta with a hire car to explore more of the island.

Calheta is now very much a tourist destination with a couple of hotels,  a marina and a manmade beach but it's past lies in processing sugar cane into rum.

Our hotel was the Saccurum, a modern large hotel on the beach. We had a lovely sea view room that gave great views of the area.

November is the rainy season in Madeira and we did have some wet and stormy weather but several days of warm sunshine too.

Friday - Levada Do Acrim

The weather in Calheta on Friday morning was bright skies but when we reached our destination at Rabacal we were in thick cloud and it was decidedly chilly, fleeces and coats required for our first walk.

A reasonably easy walk to start the week although the path was muddy underfoot and slippery in places.

We didn't have great visibility and turned back at the waterfall which feeds this levada.  Here we needed to shelter under the trees from a torrential rain shower, not quite the weather we were expecting. 

Saturday - Levada Da Faja Rodrigues and San Vicente

Another showery day with occasional thunder and lightening.

Another levada walk so not much elevation change however this doesn't mean that it is easy walking. The paths are narrow with steep often unguarded drops and due to the recent rain very wet! Indeed wellies would be the only way to keep dry feet!

Still beautiful and we did get to walk behind a waterfall. 

We drove to the northern town of Sao Vicente and had a charcuterie board for lunch. 

Sunday - Levada Da Central  Da Ribeira Janela/ Porto Moniz

A drive to the North West of Madeira and much sunnier today.

This levada started off much wider and more open than the others so far with views back to the coast however this was a deceiving start in a couple of places there had been fairly recent huge landslides which had ripped away the safety fencing. 

We turned around at the long tunnel which again involved paddling through standing water.

We drove to Porto Moniz the most northern part of the island with its volcanic sea pools and Sea Horse Rock.

The sun is shining so topping up the vitamin D levels today.

Monday - Risco Waterfall and 25 Fontes

The storms seem to have passed so we headed back to Rabacal and walked to the Risco waterfall and the 25 fontes. 

A very busy route but worth the walk although the 10 minute minibus ride back to the carpark was very welcome. 

We had a surprise when we got back to the hotel the adjacent road was closed due to rockfall.  There were actually workmen clearing loose rocks from the hillside and they were tumbling down onto the road.

Tuesday - Prazares

Another warm sunny day we planned a one way route from Prazares to the coast,  a short but very steep decent and then catching the one afternoon bus back to town. 

After about a mile of downhill walking through the sleepy rural town we found out the trail was closed due to rockfall! We retraced our steps and walked along the Calheta levada which was very functional and rather boring although we did scrump a lemon and a lime.

Wednesday - Ponta Do Pargo

The most westerly point of the island which has some amazing views of the almost sheer cliffs.

Our Sunflower guide describes this walk as a lovely ramble with a boring 25 minute climb which is pretty much true but I think the climb to me rather longer, it went on for ever!

Walking along the levada there was evidence of an extensive forest fire, we are not sure how long ago but the trees are all dead but being colonised by fast growing climbers. The grass and ferns were all growing normally so obviously not this year.

We also drove to the nearby lighthouse. 

Thursday - Pico Ariero

On our last day we drove to the mountains which are often shrouded in cloud.  There is a well made rd to the summit of Pico Ariero which stands at 1810m above sea level. 

We only had time for a short stroll but the scenery was stunning. 

A beautiful drive back to the car hire depot and time for 1 last beer in the sunshine before our airport drop off.