Chania - A City Break By The Sea - May 2022

Tuesday 17th 

Our first post Coronavirus foreign travel. Horror stories of delays at airport check-in and security were totally unfounded and we enjoyed the extra legroom on the plane. Following a short delay to take off we arrived in Crete, Chania in time for a walk along the harbour wall and a late dinner at the Sailing Club restaurant - just a stone throw from our hotel.

Wednesday 18th

We spent the morning finding our feet in Chania by doing a multi-cache which took us around the harbour, lighthouse and Old Town - the final waypoint being beyond the Maritime museum. We also stumbled upon ice cream shops and a pottery workshop that became one of our local landmarks.

We spent the afternoon with a couple of beers on the balcony making the most of our harbour view suite.

We walked the harbour wall to watch the sunset before our "wedding anniversary" dinner...

...after which we visited The Battle of Crete exhibition housed in one of the venetian wharehouses, an incredible collection of photographs mainly taken by German soldiers.

Thursday 19th 

We were due to walk the Samaria Gorge today but based on the weather forecast we have moved it forward to Sunday - a very good move as the National Park was actually closed today because of the forecast. 

A grey windy chilly day - I wasn't expecting the weather in Crete to be colder than home! Dressed in our warmest clothes we walked to the lighthouse braving the wind and spray...

...before heading away from the old town to the Tanneries area. The sea was angry and lapped over the terraces of the harbourside restaurant. We returned to our hotel via hilly residential streets, orange and lemon trees in many gardens.

Too windy to play cards on the balcony today and the sea too rough for boats to leave the harbour.

We opted for dinner again at the Sailing Club, a little bit chilly but a great veiwpoint.

Friday 20th

Still windy today with rough sea so no boats able to leave the harbour but by lunchtime the sun was shining. We also had to move rooms today as our suite was no longer available, the hotel offered a choice and although we lost our harbour view we were still very comfortable on the top floor.

We walked to the Commonwealth War Grave Cemetery in Souda Bay on the anniversary of the start of the Battle of Crete 20/05/1941.

There are many Australian, New Zealand and British Graves, young men so far away from home fighting to save Europe from Nazi domination. The cemetary was immaculate and preparing for the comemerations to come on Saturday. (The British defence Attache and Ambassador to Greece were staying in our hotel, we enjoyed watching the bodyguards cleaning and checking the cars for bombs each morning).

We were keen to catch a ride back to Chania but there is no Uber in Greece, nowhere to order a taxi so we made our way to the main road and hoped there would be a bus. We started walking and a bus went by, hopeful and disheartening in equal measure. Eventaually we came to a bus stop with a teenager waiting, he told us the next bus was due in 20 minutes so we thankfully rested our legs in the shade of the bus stop.

The bus dropped us in the new modern city with familiar shops and regular life but we were keen to find the main bus station where we could purchase tickets for our trip to the Botanical Gardens on Saturday.

We opted for dinner inside tonight in an old soap factory, full of character and good food.

Saturday 21st

We made our way to the bus station for our trip to the Botanical Gardens, a superb journey through the mountains in a very modern comfortable air conditioned coach - excellent value at 10 Euros return.

The gardens were born after a devastating fire in 2003 annilated 100,000 olive trees. The owners of the land had an idea of creating a haven of tranquility and biodiversity. We spent a very enjoyable morning feasting with our eyes, touching the plants and smelling their aromas, accompanied by very noisy peacocks.

A superb lunch on the terrace followed before we made the return bus journey.

Back in Chania a geocache took us to the old part of the town Kasteli a small residential area dating back around 5000 years, there are also many Venetion mansions some restored into swanky modern accomodation and some in a dilapidated state.

Dinner was back at the Sailing Club where we love the food and the location, perfect for watching the Insta generation.

Looking up at the hill on our after dinner stroll we could see people standing on a plateau in Kasteli, intrigued we found our way there and were rewarded with a great panorama of the town and the sunset.

Sunday 22nd

A 05.00 alarm call for our trip to the Samaria Gorge today, picnic breakfast and lunch packed and dressed in warm clothes for the early morning in the mountains. Our guide was full of useful tips and information and said she would see us at the bottom of the gorge.

Today was also the day of the Samaria run 120 entrants came running through when we were about 1-2 hours in, we were carefully choosing where to put our feet on the rocky terrain and they were hurtling down the mountain at speed. 

We had brilliant conditions for walking and there was plenty of shade for much of the time, we crossed the river many times sometimes on slippery stepping stones (there was still plenty of water from snow melt and the recent rain) other times we crossed on rickety bridges of logs lashed together. There was less shade in the lower parts of the gorge but the sheer scale and geology of the rock walls is amazing.

The last 2km of the walk is easy along the valley floor to the seaside village of Agia Roumeli which only seems to consist of a few rooms for overnight stays and tavernas that do a good trade until the ferry departs at 17.30.

The boat trip was a little bit choppy and chilly after the heat from the gorge. The coach journey return took us back to the North coast from the South over the White Mountains.

A late return back to Chania meant we wanted something quick to eat tonight and we found a fast food restaurant called Chop just 200m from our hotel. Excellent food served in a wrap. I had meatballs, Colin had Pancetta, they were both delicious.

Monday 23rd

We walked to Nea Chora a sandy beach and fishing port just 1km west of the Old town and dropped into the local swimming gala

It is amazing to see how different this area is with sun loungers and parasols on the sand, we dipped our toes in the sea and walked along the sand but we were glad to return to the town and spent the afternoon souvenir shopping in the back streets.

After dinner we revisited the Battle of Crete exhibition which we could appreciate a little more after absorbing more of the impact it had on the island. The Allied troops had retreated to Crete from mainland Greece. On 20/05/1941 1000's of German paratroopers dropped into Chania and the airstrips to the west. resistance from the troops and the locals ensued but they were outnumbered and the troops had to escape over the White Mountains via the Irini Gorge to the South of the island where they were evacuated to Alexandria. The locals paid a heavy price for their resistance being used as slave labour and subject to execution.

Tuesday 24th

Our last day in Crete but we have a late flight so one more day to absorb the warm sunshine, Chania Old Town and do some people watching from one of our favourite restaurants at The Sailing Club.

After mooching around the shops yesterday for souvenirs we made our way back today to make our purchases and back to the plateau at Kasteli for a panoramic photograph.

The afternoon was spent in the shade of the hotel courtyard before heading out for a late lunch on the harbourside.

We have noticed during the course of our week that many people come to Chania for just one or two nights to visit the old buildings, walk along the harbour wall, pose for their Instagram and perhaps walk the Samaria Gorge but we have thoroughly enjoyed going slowly and spending the week here.